Estancia Los Portreros

For those of you that read my Destination: Argentina Post, you will recall that spending time at an authentic Argentinian ranch (estancia) was a really important wish list item for me when planning my trip.  I fortunately stumbled upon Estancia Los Portreros which far exceeded any expectation that I could of had for staying on a ranch in South America. Warning: the pictures do not do it justice!

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Estancia Los Portreros is a working cattle and horse farm located in the Sierras Chicas, an hour outside of Cordoba.  Owned and operated by the Begg family, the Estancia has been in their family for over three generations and their love and pride for their ranch is clearly felt by each and every guest during their stay.

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Family Stay

Owners, Kevin and Louis (Lou) Begg, oversee the entire operation and go to great lengths to make guests feel like they are personal friends of the family.  All the meals are communal and served at the same table. Most nights end with a glass of whiskey, laughing with your new friends by the fireplace.

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White-washed Buildings

The buildings are traditional and have architectural references references to the Jesuits that once lived in this area.  With large patios and wide walkways connecting each room, the Estancia truly embodies the meaning of indoor/outdoor living.  One of my favorite details was the kerosene lanterns that would be put out every evening to light our path.

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A Good Night's Rest

The spacious & beautifully simple bedrooms are decorated with many antiques that have been with the Begg family for a long time.  Each room is private and mine had a window looking out on the stunning landscape which was such a treat to see every morning!

Though modern it is not, the furnishings & bathrooms have been well maintained and their simplicity feels just right for authentic Estancia living. My favorite thing was the freshly ironed (and clearly high quality) bedding probably spoke to the textiles buyer in me.  Of my entire trip, this is where I slept the most peacefully!

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Living in Nature

The ranch is spread out over 6,500 acres and though they can accommodate up to a dozen people, their preference is to keep it closer to 6-8 people at a time.  There are two great benefits to this... first and foremost, the level of care and attention you get is truly special and secondly, the connection you experience with nature is pretty remarkable.

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Christmas at the Estancia

Though I had a brief stay at Estancia Los Portreros, I was so happy that one of those days happened to fall on December 8th, which is the holy day of The Feast of the Immaculate Conception.  This is the day the staff at the Estancia pull out all of their Christmas decorations and literally sprinkle the holiday cheer throughout the communal living and dining spaces.  It was so unique to experience the Christmas holiday in the middle of the Argentinian summer!

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Rustic Luxury

I found Estancia Los Portreros to strike the perfect balance between rustic and luxury.  It is a great place to engage with nature and animals....not just horses by the way, their are about ten border collies who are happy to be your friend.  And the level of service you get from the horseback riding with private guides to the impeccably prepared meals truly are luxurious.  The only piece of advice I would give is to make sure you stay a minimum of three nights, you will be kicking yourself otherwise!